I will make this point many times in my essays, I do not relay on microprocessors. Even in times of peace and industrialization, I have had processors fail on me too many times. I would never rely on them in a survivalist situation (inverters etc). All my circuits are hard wire by relay controlled (solenoid) or industrial diodes. This hard wired circuit can be repaired and replaced. LED lighting, that is a weak diode (Semiconductor; one direction current), is manufactured by use of crystals and alloys, elements yet prone to heat stress.
The only real advantage LED’s have to a incandescent light is the efficiency of creating more photons for each watt.
The destructive short lived life of any LED is thermal decomposition. This is why I beefed up with industrial duty diodes for my simple charging circuits then cooled them with small enclosure fans. Thermal heat cycles applied to Gallium Arsenide and related alloys in microscopic layers (LED III-V semiconductors) or organic OLEDs will break down. Also, most household current, that is alternating current, will need a small inverter (Rectifier) to deliver direct current to the substrates to produce light. These rectifier also create heat and will cycle to failure by thermal decomposition. The only real advantage LED’s have to a incandescent light is the efficiency of creating more photons for each watt. Less heat for each watt in power conservation. Yet, Gallium Arsenide, like the inverter to power it, will break down by thermal decomposition in time just like an incandescent filament. In a survival situation, power conservation for electric storage is a focal point, but longevity is critical for the device you will power. My cooling fans cost my circuits power but longevity (cycles to failure) is my objective. Keep in mind, for a capitalistic economic system, most products are designed to fail so the home consumer will be forced to purchase a new product. SurvalDuty will focus on industrial duty LED’s in a survivalist situation. Industrial duty products are designed handle more cycles of thermal decomposition for industry. Oh, and the rated hours posted on home residential LED light bulbs is fictional. Every LED light I have purchased rated to last for years, like 50,000+ hours, lasted as long or slightly longer than a incandescent. Technically the crystals and alloys will last that long, but not the micro thin LED substrates, the AC/DC Rectifier (driver) or the construction of the bulb itself. Meaning the heat sinks are poorly designed: again, marketed to fail.
Electric power relies more on appliances that have shore life cycles.
Having power storage (batteries) and electric production (solar panels/wind), in a survivalist situation, I would want power appliances such as: Light, water pumps, fans and 12v refrigerator/freezers. All DC power. Heat is the most productive source of power. The energy is found abundantly the environment by sunlight and hard and soft wood. Great for warming, cooking and manufacturing metals, ceramics, and so on (I will cover these topics in later posts). Yet electric power relies more on appliances that have shore life cycles. Having light in the winter during short periods of sunlight, will increase productivity and a healthier state of mind. For short term power disruptions, I will cover LED lighting. For long term survival planning, I will cover incandescent lighting. In future essays I will cover how to create new filaments for an incandescent bulb; something we cannot do with LEDs.
I have purchased and tested Chinese manufactured (ES) 12v DC LED’s that have failed. Since I do not test on integrated electronic power supplies, solar power and battery power varies in voltage. A 24v DC LED will handle voltage fluctuations then a straight 12v LED. Even the DC version of LED bulbs have internal drivers. There are other sources of industrial LED that can be found in a survival situation. For example: the modern automobile LED lighting based on a 12v system (without a driver), or HDTV back lighting. HDTV LED and LCD TV’s are equipped with industrial strength LED (SMD) or fluorescent tube backlighting in older models. Voltages vary from 6 to 20v DC internally. A ballast resister would be required yet this will also consume power. Remember, the brighter (lumens) the LED the greater the thermal stress. Better to have many soft low voltage LEDs to brighten a room then one hot, bright LED. In other words, if the DC LED lighting you have does not produce any noticeable heat, this LED will most likely last the rated 50,000+ hours. With survival, the focus is longevity then just efficiency. I will not cover fluorescent lighting for they, like incandescent bulbs, use filaments to excite electrons that generate heat. Incidentally, the old CRT TV’s that were also fluorescent (phosphor) lighting could last for years, 24 hours a day on heavy gauge heater filaments coiled at the cathode end. Too bad the old CRT TV’s are no longer manufactured.
Future chapters I will cover simple hardware circuits (survival circuits), making your own incandescent filaments and power storage.
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